Well, no matter how you look at it, 2023 has been quite a year and it was a particularly challenging one for the BC wine industry. Bitter cold winter, landslides, forest fires, and travel bans, all hit Okanagan wineries hard. However, like all farmers, these are passionate optimistic people and there is always hope for next year so let’s celebrate them all and look forward to the next vintage.
With well over fifty BC sparkling wine producers in almost every wine region, there is so much to choose from. Some employ the traditional ‘Methode Champenoise’ while others use the tank method. Some stick to traditional styles making their wines from some combination of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier while others venture out with bubblies made from Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Gamay, Shiraz, and many other tantalizing combinations of Auxerois, Bacchus, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Semillon, Viognier and even Zweigelt so there is something to suit every budget, style, and taste.
In part one, we begin with three wines, each using a different type of closure – traditional sparkling wine cork, crown cap, and screw top.
Blasted Church
OMG
$26.00
Oh My Gosh indeed. This Traditional Methode sparkler is an interesting blend of 60% Pinot Blanc and 40% Chardonnay. Lemon yellow with medium-minus intensity. An inviting nose of lemon, bread, apple, pineapple, melon, ‘lees’, and toast. Very good balance with mouth-filling creamy mousse. Yummy on the palate with sweet citrus – Meyer lemon, lime, mandarin, and white grapefruit flavours dominating followed by a medium-long finish with flavours lingering. Oddly, the bubbles did not last as long as expected though it could have been my glass. Serve this one with white fish, sushi, or popcorn.
91 Points
Okanagan Crush Pad
Narrative XC 2022
$24.99
Sparkling wine in a screw top? Yes! This intriguing wine is a blend of Auxerois and Chardonnay from Naramata. (And for those with a keen eye, a drop of red wine was added to the blend to give its attractive pink colour.) It was fermented in concrete, stainless steel and large barrels, all of which contribute to the character of this wine. Queen Anne cherry red with medium-minus intensity. The nose is fresh and inviting with delicate aromas of peaches, pineapple, mango, fresh raspberries, lemons, and a touch of yeast. Good balance with mouth-filling mousse. Mouth-watering on the palate with juicy fresh fruit that carries over from the nose. A medium-plus tangy finish with flavours lingering. Pair this wine with a cheese and charcuterie platter, salmon, ham, turkey, or a summer fruit salad. (And did you notice that the label feels different from a paper label? That’s because it is, “Metallic BOPP (Biaxially Oriented Polypropylene Film) with a matte laminate.” Now you know.
92 points
TIME Family of Wines
Evolve Brut Rosé 2018
$54.99
2018 was the inaugural vintage for this high-end traditional method sparkler from TIME. It is a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 9% Pinot Blanc and 1% Syrah. They were fermented separately and blended before bottling. Aged for five years on lees before disgorging. The tiny amount of Syrah gives the wine its inviting rosé colour. Just one whiff of the tightly woven nose tells you that this is a traditional method nose with yeasty notes, fruit – strawberries, lemon, cherries, toast, brioche, and a delicate caramel note. Very good balance with mouth-filling mousse. The flavours echo the nose followed by a slightly bitter medium-long flavourful finish that calls out for food. Serve this one with oysters, caviar, clam linguini, creamy pastas, or strong cheeses. Currently, this is a club exclusive and a good reason to join.
93 Points
All these would be great for New Year’s toasting.
BTW On the flute vs goblet debate, I agree that flutes are more festive, but for enhanced aroma and flavour I side with goblets. Try a side-by-side comparison and decide for yourself!
(All photos – Sam Hauck)
