When the cold winter weather sets in, many people enjoy opening a big flavourful red wine to while away the dark winter evenings. And what better than one of these offerings from Fort Berens?
The 2023 harvest resulted in smaller yields than is the norm, which was expected after the devastating cold winter of 2022, however, the fruit is very good and shows good structure. Bud damage varied depending on the block and variety. The Riesling vines faired quite well, while the Merlot crop was one of the smallest in the last decade and only 50% of the Cabernet Sauvignon budded in the spring. They expect the harvest will only be about 30% of a normal crop. Plans are underway to replant the lost vines.
The good news is that Fort Berens fared better than many other wineries with only about 8% overall vine loss compared to the overall industry average of 29%.
Winemaker Alex Nel commented that the fruit developed quite differently this year. As a result of the lower yield, it ripened earlier. The whites showed more colour and phenolics at lower sugar levels (all good news) while the reds have lower acid and higher sugar levels with lots of colour and tannins so you can expect the 2023 reds to be amazing. Alex aims to produce impressive wines that are capable of making the Decanter Top 50 list as he did while working at Cederberg Winery in South Africa.
2022 Pinot Noir
$34.99
794 cases produced.
Despite the cold winter, these vines showed little winter damage. The summer was hot and dry and extended well into the fall ensuring fully ripe fruit. The grapes were picked early in the season at peak ripeness and were given a cold soak for two days before fermentation. The wine was in barrel for nine months before bottling.
My notes: Cherry red with medium-plus intensity. Bright red fruit, especially cherry, raspberry, cranberry, and strawberry, along with vanilla and earth, mushroom and forest floor notes. Good balance with medium body. The flavours echo the nose along with hints of lavender and black tea followed by a medium-plus finish. At only 12.5 ABV, this is a lovely afternoon wine. Also, a good match for appies, grilled salmon, seared duck breast or mushroom risotto.
90 Points
In June 2021 the temperature hit 48° C, the hottest temperature ever recorded at the winery. Fortunately, the weather later cooled down and brought more than the average amount of rainfall. The red wines enjoyed a long hang time which produced rich, bold flavours. Yields at harvest were above average. The next two wines, the 2021 Meritage and Cabernet Franc wines, are made with estate-grown grapes blended with some grapes from Osoyoos.
2021 Cabernet Franc
$32.99
As with the Meritage, the grapes enjoyed a long hang time and above-average yields. Aged for 15 months in French oak barrels, 5% new oak.
My notes: Garnet red with medium-deep intensity. The nose shows dusty herbs, earth, black currant, plum, and vanilla along with hints of spice, game, and sandalwood. Good balance with firm ripe tannins. Dark berries and savoury notes dominate the palate followed by a medium-plus finish with some slightly drying tannins. Be sure to decant and give this one time to open. Age-worthy for 8-10 years. Serve with slow-roasted leg of lamb, grilled burgers, or a balsamic marinated pork loin.
91 Points
2021 Meritage
$31.99
A blend of 64% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 17% Cabernet Franc. Cold soaked for 4 days. Each variety was fermented and aged separately before assemblage.
My notes: Garnet red with medium-deep intensity. An appealing and fruity nose with well-integrated aromas of red and black fruit, delicate strawberry and cherry notes, and vanilla. Good balance with smooth ripe tannins. Flavourful on the palate with cherries, spice, raspberries, rhubarb, strawberries, and coffee undertones. A medium-plus finish with toasty and vanilla flavours lingering. Pair with grilled rib eye, burgers with cheese, onions and mushrooms, homemade pizza, or pasta Bolognese.
92 Points
The recently released ‘Small Lot’ wine series features 100% estate-grown grapes.
2021 Small Lot Merlot
$32.99
343 cases
Hand-harvested from the Dry Creek and the younger Red Rock Vineyards. The Dry Creek vines are 11 years old and bring structure and complexity while the younger Red Rock grapes add aromatic red berry aromas. The grapes were given a two-day cold soak which helps to extract optimal fruit character. Pump-overs every four hours helped achieve just the right amount of colour and flavour. After pressing the wine was aged for 15 months in neutral French oak.
My notes: Garnet/black with medium-deep intensity. An inviting nose that opens with aromas of plum, cherry, blueberry, raspberry, and herbs followed by cocoa powder. Very good balance. The flavours reflect the nose followed by a medium-plus warm, lingering finish. Pair with beef tenderloin, herbed roasted chicken, pork roast, roasted root vegetables, or strong cheeses. Age-worthy through 2030
91 Points
All photos – Sam Hauck
